Orazio Luciano | Always a Thimble in the Pocket

Style & Iconic Details

Orazio Luciano has been making high quality formal and casual garments for the elegant man since early 90’s.

Refined classicism and a touch of technical virtuosity are keynotes of the brand, inspired by Neapolitan tailoring, the founders create their models on contemporary modern lines with the objective to form garments worn with unrestricted ease, the Neapolitan flair is always there, present in each suit, in each jacket, in each cote and in each detail.

In Orazio Luciano's workshop the cutters turn gorgeous fabrics into bespoke pieces, made to measure and ready to wear collections, attention to detail, perfection of cut and typical soft Neapolitan construction are the true heritage of the company.

From the earliest days the brand has dared to experiment different techniques and push the traditional style boundaries with subtle details like an aggressive mappina, hand stitched buttonholes and a particularly notable effortless fit, Orazio Luciano likes to wear his elegance lightly while pushing the traditional wardrobe codes to make his own style statement.

Orazio Luciano offers today's well-dressed man the best expression of modern tailoring. Its Ready-to-Wear collection conceived from hand-made craftsmanship, high quality fabrics and a modern touch has been recognized and praised by many prestigious sartorial retailers.

The Orazio Luciano famous fit offers an unrivaled freedom of movement, which refines the body figure.

Details like hand sewn buttonholes, dropped notch height, slightly broadened lapel and other stylistic devices perfectly symbolize the spirit of Orazio Luciano, a true Men's tailoring company.

ORAZIO LUCIANO LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA

Countless diligent tailors, who are responsible for the incomparable fit and character of every suitjacket, pair of trousers or shirt, work with all their blood, sweat and tears for many hours of hard manual work for the perfect sartorial pieces.

But which philosophy and, above all, which group of people is behind these industrious tailors and behind these individual manufactories?

In order to provide you with valuable insights into the sartorial world, we will address these questions within the new section "Behind The Brand".

In our first article, we are talking about no other than Orazio Luciano.

The success story dates back to the year 1992. After his long-standing work as the first cutter at Kiton, Orazio Luciano, whose brand is named after him, decided to set up his own business. Up until now, the manufactory of Orazio Luciano is situated in the area of San Giovanni a Teduccio, in the southwestern part of Naples, just a few meters from the Gulf of Naples.

THE ORAZIO LUCIANO PHILOSOPHY

The full name "Orazio Luciano - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" translates as "The Real Neapolitan Tailoring". So it is self-evident that the suits and jackets always have to fit perfectly.

It is an honest product which scores with a wonderful fit as well as extreme softness and lightness. Like other well-known manufactures, Orazio Luciano also relies on the classic Neapolitan art of tailoring.

These include:

A soft construction of the jacket

  • The typical shirt shoulders, better known as "Spalla Camicia", which are significantly elaborated by Orazio Luciano

  • The Neapolitan breast pocket, better known as "Barchetta"

  • The wider lapel

  • The hand-sewn buttonholes

Due to the high-cut armholes and the extremely easy processing without padding, a feeling of lightness is created from the very first moment. The high armhole and the soft shoulder construction let the suit fit perfectly - an effect that you will feel right at the first try!

Tailoring

At Orazio Luciano we favor a soft constructed, masculine cut garment, with a shaped waist and typical Neapolitan mappina shoulder. We aim to create a silhouette that is well balanced and in perfect proportion. Our Made To Measure service perfectly bridges the gap between bespoke and ready-to-wear and offers the client an efficient solution to have a suit made to his own specifications.

The client would need to fit our master garments at the hands of one of our tailoring advisors and discusses and chooses the style of suit and the fabric and particular buttons and lining that he would like. This is a time-conscious and effective service that doesn't compromise on quality. We cut our clothes to create a harmonious and flattering line, naturally revealing something of the character of its owner. Every customer has their own pattern, meticulously hand cut to his individual measurements and figure, refined through the fitting process.

For a new customer this process will take approximately three to four months to complete and will usually involve four fittings. Once a pattern has been created all subsequent clothes can be completed more rapidly, each garment is cut and fitted under the control of Head Cutter Orazio Luciano.

https://www.orazioluciano.com





Hadleighs | Atelier.

Hadleigh’s Is Haute Stuff.

There are plans for a storefront, but for now Hadleigh’s remains hidden in the Kessler Park neighborhood of Oak Cliff. You will need an appointment. At the door, you will be greeted by the charming Adnan “Ed” Shaikh or perhaps by his adorable wife, Gable. If you prefer, they can come to you, but then you’d miss meeting their 2-year-old daughter, the eponymous Hadleigh herself, who has the run of the place. A glass of wine? A panino? There is no rush. The Shaikhs will want to get to know you before the measuring begins. They met while working at the Ralph Lauren store in Highland Park Village. She had just moved from New York, where she graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology. He was the third-ranked Ralph Lauren salesman in the country. They were friends at first, then more than that. Ed went on to become a buyer at Stanley Korshak, and Gable followed. By then they were engaged. Last winter, they decided to open their own atelier, Hadleigh’s, selling bespoke clothes for men and women—everything cut and sewn by hand in Italy, made to fit you and only you. You will need to take your wallet. A Hadleigh’s custom suit starts at $1,700; one by Cesare Attolini could cost five times that. To finish the look, Hadleigh’s carries Mazzarelli dress shirts ($600) and bench-made shoes from Barker Black (wing tips, $750). There are lines such as Emanuele Maffeis for women who are similarly unconcerned by price points. Ed says most of his very private customers buy by the dozen. If that sounds like you, make an appointment by visiting

THE BEST MAN CAVE IN TEXAS

These days, a house is not a home without a man cave, but the one Texas men are rating the best in town is the Atelier at Hadleigh’s in Highland Park Village. It’s more than just a place to go for interesting conversation and a new insight into what it takes to be among the best-dressed men in town. It’s a private little world presided over by Ed Shaikh, who is not only a co-founder of Hadleigh’s, but its Creative Director, a guy who understands the world of men’s fashion and knows how to adapt it to every client’s individuality.

You can experience his approach to your own potential by making an appointment to enter this special world. Whether for a fitting or for a consultation, Hadleigh’s-By-Appointment guarantees you’ll have Ed’s undivided attention and plenty of time to explore suiting prototypes, run your hands over luxurious Italian fabrics and explore a unique collection of shirtings and accessories. It’s all waiting for you up on the second floor under the Highland Park Village clock tower.

Ed and his team are committed to giving you the very best— from the finest fabrics to the latest in design. By combining the best components, down to the buttons and the lapel style, end result is a suit, a tuxedo or a sports jacket that is completely different from any other because it has been created just for you. The careful measurements are taken by Ed himself, which he double-checks in a second fitting before returning the garment for finishing. It is an exhausting process, but you’ll be surprised how little time it takes from your first visit to the Atelier to the first compliment about your outstanding good taste.

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICo.

Our History.

The “quinternetto delle taglie” (literally a “small, five-page list of sizes”) dates to 1663, and amounts to a particularly significant historical document for the Barberis Canonico family. It describes Ajmo Barbero’s sale of a “saia grisa” to the Duke of Savoia, and is essentially the first official document testifying to the company’s wool mill activities. But that’s not all: the document also describes a mastery of the dyeing process (something not everyone possessed) that was jealously guarded and passed down from father to son.Halfway through the nineteenth century, Giuseppe Barberis Canonico, following the transformation introduced by the industrial revolution, decided to increase production, collaborating with the Maurizio Sella company, which had already automated its production processes. Later on his son, also named Giuseppe, aimed to increase the number of machines the company was using and rented out a wool mill in Flecchia. By the end of the 1800s, the company was using no fewer than 800 spindles and 73 frames. When the first mechanical frames arrived in 1868, all weaving, dyeing, brushing and threading activities were concentrated in the Pratrivero factory.

GENTLEMAN'S WARDROBE.

Selected with care, enriched over time, the elements that make up a well-constructed men’s wardrobe allow a gentleman to express his sense of style in any situation. First of all, it’s important to identify what’s truly useful, then choose from amongst those the item’s most correct versions, selecting the one that best reflects your individual taste. A wardrobe should comprehend all the major traditional aesthetic areas: seasonality (winter and summer), context (formal, informal, casual), and type of commitment (daytime, evening, ceremonial). Respecting these guidelines means honoring the concentration of clear values and hidden codes that respond to one, single, universal name: tradition.

GARY COOPER | Enduring Elegance.

In his long career as a film actor, Gary Cooper played every type of role available to a leading man” he was a small-town poet and small-town sheriff, a playboy, an heroic soldier, scientist, spy, professor, French Foreign Legionnaire, swashbuckler, con man, fighter pilot, Indian fighter, Bengal lancer, and of course dozens of cowboys. No matter what costume he put on, he looked like he owned it. The camera loved him, and so did the box office.

But costume is one thing, and clothes are another. In his private life he wore contemporary clothes with a perfection of his own debonair style that combined the fine tailored European wardrobe with all-American casual clothes to produce the first and still finest example of elegant international masculinity.

None other than the great American designer Bill Blass once said that Cooper had the greatest sense of style of anyone he’d ever met. It was the purposeful nonchalance of being able to wear clothes effortlessly, to be entirely at easer even in the most formalwear, that defined Cooper’s approach.

“You see,” Blass wrote, “It was no accident that Cooper looked as terrific as he did … he used to go on these shopping expeditions to Rome and Paris. He’d buy cottons by the yard in Mexico and then send them to his shirtmaker in Italy. He had tailors all over the world, and he was the first to buy jeans and do the stone-washing thing. He’d beat them on a rock and leave them out in the sun all day. Did it himself too.”

This approach of artful nonchalance can be seen hundreds of times in Cooper’s films when he’s wearing modern dress: the jaunty angle of his fedora, the colorful silk scarf at the neck or worn as a belt, the tie allowed to float freely around the upturned points of his shirt collar, the fancy patterned sports jacket worn with a knitted sports shirt, a camel hair polo coat thrown loosely over the shoulders, the lapel of his chalk-striped double-breasted suit casually falling to the lower button.

In all of this he rose above and ignored the contrived glamour and studied posturing that had characterised so many film heroes of those years. And he remains, in his ability to personalise tradition, a model for today.

Brioni | The Art of Tailoring.

MASTERS AT WORK

The Brioni Tailors are the boundless heralds of the men’s tailoring art. They are the men and women who achieve the highest level of sartorial excellence. Their artistry is imbued in all the unseen details that distinguish Brioni garments. From the initial cutting to the final ironing phases, they impart expertise to all the steps that bring a Brioni men’s suit to life, rendering it an unmatched creation and an emblem of the expertise handed down from generation to generation. Every suit is the result of the Brioni method, a process unique to the company that requires 220 steps and more than 22 hours of effective workmanship. Under the supervision of our tailoring experts, each suit comes to life thanks to more than 6000 meticulously hidden stitches made by hand. With the manual skill as its pivot, Brioni suit caresses the body lightly and molds the silhouette with absolute precision. In this process of sculpture, the Brioni Master Tailors work with each client to create unique masterpieces in a harmonious dialog between body, personality, needs and desires.

GENIUS OF THE LAND

Penne is Brioni and Brioni is Penne. With its cobblestone streets, dramatic castle, enchanting landscape, and its long winters and quiet summers, this calm town in the Abruzzo region provides the perfect environment for craftmanship and dedication. Penne is home to the heart of the Italian men’s tailoring tradition. In fact, tailoring has always run in the blood and in the unsurpassed manual expertise of Penne’s population. In 1959, Nazareno Fonticoli – one of Brioni’s founders and among Rome’s most renowned tailors – and his business partner Gaetano Savini pioneered the idea of prêt-á-couture, creating a tailoring atelier of industrial proportion in Penne. For this ambitious endeavor, Fonticoli cogently opened it in his hometown, gathering the most skilled of the local tailors. They christened it Brioni Roman Style, with its Roman perspective and endemic Abruzzian values.

TREASURE OF KNOWLEDGE

Tailoring is a cultural legacy that takes decades to transmit from a seasoned master to a young talent. Brioni’s founders faced the importance to safeguard the Brioni tradition with a bold intuition: invest in the schooling of new generations. It was 1985 when the Scuola di Alta Sartoria opened in Penne, the sole existing tailoring high school in Italy. It quickly turned into an institution of Abruzzo and a crown jewel of Italian savoir faire. Having its very own tailors trained in its very own school is what sets Brioni apart in the firmament of men’s tailoring. Only sixteen pupils are rigorously selected every four years to attend the courses at the school, housed in a stern historical building in the town center. With an ethical and artisanal mission, the Scuola di Alta Sartoria exceeds the mere training of the next Master Tailors: it is imbued with the belief that a meaningful future comes from the transmission of a deep-rooted heritage.

FORTELA’S ALESSANDRO SQUARZI.

There are few men who grace the digital devices we use for a style fix more inspirational than Alessandro Squarzi. Transcending the roles of menswear designer, entrepreneur, talent scout, style icon and collector of vintage cars, motorcycles and watches, the salt-and-pepper-haired Italian has developed a cult following and has acquired an understanding of the varying modes of dress.

Whether he’s sporting bespoke Edward Green and a bespoke Fortela double-breasted jacket and waistcoat made from Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth (pictured), or a Vietnam War utility shirt with white denim jeans and checkered slip-on Vans sneakers, Squarzi consistently does justice to his adaptable style, and pairs it with a friendly smile. Unsurprisingly, this 21st-century fashion-industry polymath is constantly on the move. We shot him when he was staying at the contemporary but grand Blakes Hotel in London for meetings about his two labels: Fortela, a ready-to-wear label inspired by a blend of Italian tailoring and rich Japanese textiles, and AS65, which offers repurposed and military parkas at a high price point. It’s clear that he designs for himself, and as such is a rake ne plus ultra.

BIOGRAPHY

Alessandro Squarzi, born in Forlì in 1965, is an Italian entrepreneur in the fashion industry, a talent scout and one of the most photographed men by street style bloggers around the world.

His activity in the fashion business starts in the 90s.
First as boutique manager, then as an experienced salesman Squarzi cultivated his passion for fashion. He’s not only a brilliant business man, he also understood before others the potential of some of today’s well-known brands , that at the time were still finding their spot in the industry.

From the early 2000s, Alessandro Squarzi has created many brands and baptized others that continue to be very successful and marketed all over the world.
Between 2011 and 2013 he has designed three new labels: Fortela, AS65 and Atlantic Stars.

Men's Portrait.

Classic Portrait.

My photography session with actor Sean Scott McCraken was a pleasure. An easy guy to work with.

This guy is polite, generous and decent to a fault. In other words, a good man.

Sean's Site:

http://seanscottmccracken.com/

For this photo shoot I used the following.

Nikon 85 mm 1.8

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/camera-lenses/all-lenses/index.page

Lexar Cards.

http://www.lexar.com/

Hensel Porty and one EH Mini i Speed.

http://hensel.eu/katalog/products/flash/flash-heads/blitzkopf-eh-mini-i-speed.html

BMW Z3 R

 
 
 

The Rebellion Look

TEENAGE REBELLION.

As part of their development into young adults, humans must develop an Identity independent from their parents or family and a capacity for independent decision making. They may experiment with different roles, behaviours, and ideologies as part of their process of developing an identity. Teenage rebellion has been recognized within psychology as a set of behavioural traits that supersede class, culture, or race.

NATURE.

There remains some debate as to whether the causes of teenage rebellion are completely natural or necessary. Some posit that an adolescent's failure to achieve a sense of identity can result in role confusion and an inability to choose a vocation, and these pressures may develop from being viewed as adults. Indeed, in the Western world the age at which one is considered an adult (in both the cultural and legal sense) has advanced from the early teens in earlier centuries to the late teens and even early twenties in today's society.

ABOUT THIS PHOTO.

Lucca Carbone Portrait

I used my Nikon D800 and the 70-200mm lens also by Nikon. For memory cards Lexar has been my choice. Natural light.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-70-200mm-f%252f2.8g-ed-vr-ii.html

http://www.lexar.com/products/lexar-professional-1066x-compactflash-card

Bravery.

I admire bravery, the bravery to make daring decisions, the bravery to be exposed and vulnerable.

About this photo.

When looking at Sean's gallery in my TitoFinePortraits site one get's the idea of some one who is looking for some thing. Perhaps he is a psy out in the middle of nowhere.

I used my Nikon D800 and the 70-200mm lens also by Nikon. For memory cards Lexar has been my choice. Natural light.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/camera-lenses/af-s-nikkor-70-200mm-f%252f2.8g-ed-vr-ii.html
http://www.lexar.com/products/lexar-professional-1066x-compactflash-card

Carlos Santos | Men's Shoes | 70 years of history.

History.

Established in 1942, Carlos Santos is based in the North of Portugal and has a long experience of innovating in products for men.  Even today, Carlos Santos is one of the few Portuguese companies in the area to apply the Goodyear Welted system, a manual technique in which machines play a secondary role.

A 100% Portuguese brand which is named after its mentor, Carlos Santos, and which, year after year, has reasserted the quality of its products on an international level. Having taken its first step towards internationalisation 35 years ago, the company now operates in Germany, France, Holland, Japan, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain and the USA, and is preparing to enter the Middle East.

We Appeal to Emotions.

We produce pieces that combine art and design, tradition and timelessness. We appeal to emotions and moods, we speak directly to the imagination of those who seek us. This is the key to our success, the soul of Carlos Santos: to always put what really matters first… everyone who makes us their first choice.

Likewise, our care extends to post-sales services, flexibility and versatility for the client and communication with the outside world. All these factors add value to the brand, which is renowned for the excellence of its products and the values it stands for.

Collection.

The Carlos Santos collection is divided into two main lines: Santos by Carlos Santos (rich in carefully crafted detailing, aimed at people who are passionate about the art involved in this type of production. The look for this line is timeless and, therefore, remains mostly unchanged over time) and Carlos Santos Handcrafted (is the jewel in the company’s crown; a smaller collection with sophisticated design and traditional production – handcrafted – using a technique associated with Haute Couture.).

The production is 100% Portuguese and the materials used are carefully chosen according to the experience of Carlos Santos.

In response to clients’ requests and their trust in us, the brand is now investing in new products for women which are more feminine than before. Even though one of the new models has a high heel, the choice of materials used for female segment makes them more casual pieces.

BUGATTI BLUE COLLECTION | STYLISH MAN.

LA VIE EN BLEU

Bugatti Blue, the brand’s philosophy, finds expression within every single event associated with the company. The following sections are designed to offer a glimpse of this ever-so exclusive world: “People” talks about those who have fully embraced the Bugatti lifestyle, “Places” describes cities and places symbolising the world’s fastest car, “Events” focuses on the exclusive parties where privileged guests celebrate this luxury commodity, while “News” presents new developments concerning this one-of-a-kind mindset and approach to life, in which La Vie En Bleu reveals all its various nuances.

PEOPLE

We all have our heroes — people who inspire us and who embody perfectly the characteristics that define the essence of the Bugatti man: an eccentric yet highly sophisticated image, a dynamic character extremely attentive to new technological ideas and discoveries, but above all a passion for beauty, for outstanding workmanship, for excellence that only hard work can create.

PLACES

There are places that awaken particular scenarios and with which the Bugatti family has always lived symbiotically. However, it is the tangible aspects of art, food, museums, gardens and shops that arouse the natural curiosity of the Bugatti man when visiting these places. Locales that provide the perfect backdrop for his refined taste: non-conventional, sophisticated and with that invariable touch of nonchalance.