IN KEEPING WITH TRADITION
The A&R story begins with a yearning for the sea – and a certain Henry Rasmussen, known as Jimmy, who was born in Denmark in 1877. This talented child of a boat-building family pursued his vocation in Bremen, which was a shipbuilding hub at the time. In 1892, the young engineer was taken on by the famous Vulkan shipyard. In 1907, he launched the Abeking & Rasmussen yacht and boatyard in Vegesack-Lemwerder, close to Bremen. This has not created a reputation of belonging to the world's biggest shipyards but to the best – testimony to which can be found in the high-profile yachts and navy vessels that we have constructed. Although the company mainly focused on legendary sailing boats at the outset, it shifted towards motor yachts in the 1970s. Today, the shipyard is building a diverse range of customised yachts up to 100 metres, which continue to enthral customers and set new benchmarks.
The Abeking & Rasmussen shipbuilding complex encompasses five halls capable of housing ships up to 80 metres in length. The shipyard prides itself on the environmentally friendly workshops where it fabricates its own steel and aluminium components. Specialities include custom superyacht construction; shipbuilding for governments, coast guards and navies, refit and service work.
In recent years, Abeking & Rasmussen has become known for its work in the design and construction SWATH (Small Waterplane Twin-Hull) ships. The shipyard even has utilised that technology for a custom superyacht project, the 40.5-metre SWATH Expedition Yacht Silver Cloud, which launched in 2008.
More conventional, but no less notable Abeking & Rasmussen superyachts include the 68-metre Aviva, 57.9-metre Lady Sheridan, the 60-metre Elandess, and the 60-metre Excellence V. In 2013, the shipyard delivered its 82.48-metre flagship, Secret; Abeking & Rasmussen’s largest custom superyacht to date.
Behind the scenes
LENS: 85MM 1.4 NIKON
The “quinternetto delle taglie” (literally a “small, five-page list of sizes”) dates to 1663, and amounts to a particularly significant historical document for the Barberis Canonico family. It describes Ajmo Barbero’s sale of a “saia grisa” to the Duke of Savoia, and is essentially the first official document testifying to the company’s wool mill activities. But that’s not all: the document also describes a mastery of the dyeing process (something not everyone possessed) that was jealously guarded and passed down from father to son.Halfway through the nineteenth century, Giuseppe Barberis Canonico, following the transformation introduced by the industrial revolution, decided to increase production, collaborating with the Maurizio Sella company, which had already automated its production processes. Later on his son, also named Giuseppe, aimed to increase the number of machines the company was using and rented out a wool mill in Flecchia. By the end of the 1800s, the company was using no fewer than 800 spindles and 73 frames. When the first mechanical frames arrived in 1868, all weaving, dyeing, brushing and threading activities were concentrated in the Pratrivero factory.
Selected with care, enriched over time, the elements that make up a well-constructed men’s wardrobe allow a gentleman to express his sense of style in any situation. First of all, it’s important to identify what’s truly useful, then choose from amongst those the item’s most correct versions, selecting the one that best reflects your individual taste. A wardrobe should comprehend all the major traditional aesthetic areas: seasonality (winter and summer), context (formal, informal, casual), and type of commitment (daytime, evening, ceremonial). Respecting these guidelines means honoring the concentration of clear values and hidden codes that respond to one, single, universal name: tradition.
GARY COOPER | Enduring Elegance.
In his long career as a film actor, Gary Cooper played every type of role available to a leading man” he was a small-town poet and small-town sheriff, a playboy, an heroic soldier, scientist, spy, professor, French Foreign Legionnaire, swashbuckler, con man, fighter pilot, Indian fighter, Bengal lancer, and of course dozens of cowboys. No matter what costume he put on, he looked like he owned it. The camera loved him, and so did the box office.
But costume is one thing, and clothes are another. In his private life he wore contemporary clothes with a perfection of his own debonair style that combined the fine tailored European wardrobe with all-American casual clothes to produce the first and still finest example of elegant international masculinity.
None other than the great American designer Bill Blass once said that Cooper had the greatest sense of style of anyone he’d ever met. It was the purposeful nonchalance of being able to wear clothes effortlessly, to be entirely at easer even in the most formalwear, that defined Cooper’s approach.
“You see,” Blass wrote, “It was no accident that Cooper looked as terrific as he did … he used to go on these shopping expeditions to Rome and Paris. He’d buy cottons by the yard in Mexico and then send them to his shirtmaker in Italy. He had tailors all over the world, and he was the first to buy jeans and do the stone-washing thing. He’d beat them on a rock and leave them out in the sun all day. Did it himself too.”
This approach of artful nonchalance can be seen hundreds of times in Cooper’s films when he’s wearing modern dress: the jaunty angle of his fedora, the colorful silk scarf at the neck or worn as a belt, the tie allowed to float freely around the upturned points of his shirt collar, the fancy patterned sports jacket worn with a knitted sports shirt, a camel hair polo coat thrown loosely over the shoulders, the lapel of his chalk-striped double-breasted suit casually falling to the lower button.
In all of this he rose above and ignored the contrived glamour and studied posturing that had characterised so many film heroes of those years. And he remains, in his ability to personalise tradition, a model for today.
Behind the scenes
Pedroso&Osório was established in 1978 with the purpose of supplying decoration fabrics to the Portuguese market for interior designers, shops and architects.
At that time the market was traditional and not very demanding or dynamic. This all changed when when Laura Osório, the company's founder, began representing several international luxury brands.
Today we represent established brands such as Ralph Lauren, Designers Guild, Canovas, Larsen, Colefax, Osborne & Little and Sahco Hesslein, among others.
Pedroso&Osório provide a premium service through a committed and professional team, working from our contemporary and sophisticated showrooms in Lisbon, Porto, Algarve and Madeira.
Adding to the continuing international development of the Pedroso&Osório collections, a new brand: "Barbara Osório Fabrics" was launched in 2015, allowing us to further expand and reinforce our position in the international market through our established agents and distributors.
I am proud and enthusiastic to present this new brand.
After 20 years of working with fabrics, it became clear that creating a fresh, new image was necessary in order to reach our goals.
I value fabric as a unique object, its essence stemming from its individuality.
I am interested in its composition, color, texture, pattern and the ultimate merging of all these elements. I do not like to associate a fabric with a particular context, style or lifestyle but rather enjoy working with each fabric and exploring all of its aspects and potentials.
It is fascinating the endless possibilities for coordinating fabrics. Personally, I enjoy unpredictable combinations, although I award that satisfaction to the person who chooses the fabrics.
The new brand, barbara osorio fabrics, is drawing attention from the international press
After Equador Collection’s presentations in Madrid and São Paulo the art director of this brand, Barbara Osorio, was interviewed by AD España and the Brazilian magazine Bamboo.
An innovator and restaurateur for over twenty years.
Massimo Bottura has consolidated his reputation as one of the world’s most creative culinary figures. His internationally renowned three Michelin star restaurant, Osteria Francescana, was named number 1 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2016. Massimo Bottura’s kitchen walks on a thin line between tradition and innovation. His dishes explore the deep roots of the Italian kitchen while making references to history, art and philosophy.
To do so, Massimo Bottura focuses intensely on the cuisine and the ingredients of his country and region. Osteria Francescana, which he opened in Modena in 1995, is more than just a restaurant. It is a laboratory of ideas, always dedicated to squeeze emotions into edible bites. “We consider the past in a critic and not nostalgic way. This allows us to bring only the best of it into the future. In our dishes, we condense history, art, music, nature, humor and poetry bestowed upon us by life's unexpected events”, explains Massimo Bottura. This is how his legendary signature dishes have been created, such as “An eel swimming up the Po River” or “Oops! I dropped the lemon tart”.
Never trust a skinny Italian chef.
I grew up under the kitchen table at my grandmother Ancella’s knees. That is where appetite begins for me.
Inspiration comes from the world around me – from art, music, slow food and fast cars. Catch the flash in the dark because it only passes once. Expect the unexpected.
The road for success was not an easy one: most of the dishes created at Osteria Francescana were initially conceived as a thread to traditional Italian cuisine. Only when food critics started getting interested by the new concept of “looking at tradition from 10 kilometers away”, the restaurant got under the spotlight and the efforts of Massimo Bottura, his wife Lara Gilmore and the whole team were finally recognized in 2002 by the first Michelin star –followed by the second in 2006 and the third in 2011.
In 2017, the University of Bologna granted him a prestigious honorary degree in Business Management. This was the first Laurea honoris causa awarded to a chef in the history of the University. It is to show that today the difference can also be made by a Chef de Cuisine who has a sense of culture, social responsibility and natural environment. According to the speech delivered by the dean of the University to mark this award, “Massimo Bottura’s work spreads across the fields of entrepreneurship, education and technique and represents a virtuous example of the promotion of Italian Culture and Made in Italy.”
Cooking is a call to act.
Massimo Bottura puts his culinary skills in the service of the community and uses his reputation to support the fight against social isolation and food waste. Besides his constant work at Osteria Francescana, he founded Food for Soul, a non-profit organization setting up community kitchens infused by art & design, where chefs transform food surplus from supermarkets into tasty and delicious meals served to those in need. Food for Soul has already established five projects in Milan, Bologna, Modena and Rio de Janeiro and is planning to open in Paris, and the US. His new book «Bread is Gold», is also devoted to the fight against food waste and shows how to prepare delicious meals with food surplus and humble ingredients.
United To Protect The Oceans.
The Blue Marine Foundation (BLUE) is working to solve the crisis in the oceans through providing innovative solutions to overfishing and enabling the creation of marine reserves. Although BLUE is a small NGO, it punches above its weight, having achieved a tremendous amount for the oceans in a short time. In 2014 BLUE won NGO of the Year in the PEA (People Environment Achievement) Awards in recognition that it was ‘getting results where they matter most’. In 2015 BLUE won four PEA Awards as part of the GB Oceans Coalition including ‘Overall Champion’.
Over-fishing represents a major food security issue and has devastating consequences for the fragile biodiversity of our planet. Around 90% of global fish stocks are fully or over-exploited and around 90% of large fish are gone. The consequences are far-reaching, not only for the future of food for a growing global population, but because healthy oceans absorb half the CO2 we produce.
The Blue Marine Foundation exists to combat over-fishing and the destruction of biodiversity – arguably the largest problem facing the world’s oceans – by delivering practical conservation solutions, including the creation of large-scale marine reserves.
BLUE’s aim is to put 10% of the world’s oceans under protection by 2020 and 30% by 2030. We also work to establish sustainable fisheries so fish stocks can begin to recover
The Blue Marine Foundation (BLUE) is a UK-based charity, established in 2010 by the team behind the film The End of the Line, which brought the world’s attention to the crisis of over-fishing. BLUE was set up to enable the creation of marine reserves and establish models of sustainable fishing. In its five-year existence, BLUE has already achieved a huge amount of impactful ocean conservation, including catalysing the creation of the world’s largest fully protected marine reserve in Chagos in 2010, helping to persuade the government to create an even bigger reserve around Pitcairn in the Pacific in 2015 and facilitating the closure of 52.6% of Ascension’s waters to fishing from January 2016 to the foreseeable future
Lens: 85mm 1.4 Nikon
A Stylish man doesn’t have to be “trendy”.
A shoe tells the world who you are and, alone, it can change the way a man presents himself.
A well dressed man with ugly shoes is nothing but a man with ugly shoes.
A Stylish man doesn’t have to be “trendy”. He doesn’t care about trends, he gets noticed for his uniqueness and elegance.
These are the convictions behind the project Barbanera, started in 2011 by two couples of brothers.
Although coming from very different working backgrounds (a rock musician, an advertising executive for luxury brands and two entrepreneurs) they share the passion for hand crafted shoes and the conviction that style is something that you can only recognise once you see it and it has nothing to do with temporary fashion.
Each one of these four partners contributed with his personal taste for the creation of a unique collection of gentlemens shoes with a strong twist, which can be “dandy” as well as “classic” thanks to the design and dedicated selection of materials and colours.
Inspiration comes from the real dandies from the past, jazz music, rock’n’roll/blues musicians, writers, painters, artists, all people with strong characters, that used to change and influence what surrounded them instead of being influenced by. People that decided to risk and to create trends, instead of following them. The name of each model of the collection is a good example of that.
Philosophy | No Compromise.
The idea behind Barbanera is to create high quality and timeless shoes with NO COMPROMISE, thanks to a combination of tradition, precious leathers, true creative harmony and unsurpassed Italian craftsmanship.
Usually, there is a distinction between good classic shoes made by old shoemakers and “cool” shoes made by fashion brands. The first ones are not so “fancy” but made with very high quality. The other ones are captivating but not so good in terms of quality.
With Barbanera, this distinction doesn’t exist. Every kind of model (classic, dandy, rock’n’roll) got the same (high) quality.
A shoe never lies.
They’re not only good looking shoes, but durable, thanks to the great care for details and for finishing. Great design, with a great quality. That epitomizes the philosophy of the brand.
Comfort and uniqueness are guaranteed by the carefully chosen leather and materials, the “Goodyear” welting process, the care for details.
Following the success of the shoes, in 2017 Barbanera launches the first apparel and accessories collection. Shirts, jacket, tshirts, scarves, hats are totally made in Italy utilizing the best fabrics available, with the typical “Barbanera style”: a mixture between sartorial, country and “rock’n’roll” elements. Cool and timeless at the same time. Like the real modern gentleman style should be.
Camera and Lens by Nikon.
Lexar Media Card.
Focal Length 85 mm
1 Profoto B2
We come from a land soaked in sunlight, tinted by the green of olive trees. Land of light and shadow, full of contrast.
Craftsmen since 1877.
Towards the end of the 19th century, Antonio Fluxá brought together a group of artisans in Inca, a small town in Mallorca, where he established a workshop to produce high quality footwear.
Years later, he imported the first Goodyear welting machines from England to industrialise the process. The Goodyear welt is considered the best system for manufacturing quality and durability.
Today, 139 years later, the fourth generation of the family continues to uphold this commitment to excellence. Cartujano blends this legacy with a rich fusion of art, culture and history creating timeless pieces that are unique.
Spanish Contemporary Craftmanship.
Each village, with its own unique community and culture possesses a secret and specialist knowledge embedded in the work of its local artisans.
Cartujano defends the survival of these authentic crafts and skills. All Cartujano products are made in Spain, forged by generations of tradition. The result reveals the beauty of excellence, combining design and new techniques to create contemporary products.
Respect for tradition, passion for quality and beauty are present in every piece within the collection.
One of the most highly regarded techniques for the manufacture of shoes, used for more than a century. The process, of more than 150 steps, consists of a double stitching which bonds the leather with the insole to the sole, to provide an unsurpassable durability that exceeds that of conventional shoe construction. Double stitching also provides added comfort and isolation as the natural cork layer, characteristic in this method, molds to the insole and, in time, is shaped by the foot.
The White Town of Andalusia.
In the heart of Andalusia lies the white village of Ubrique, where the bags of Cartujano were first conceived. A trinity of elements; water, chalk and cork, cultivated the development of tanneries by Roman and Arab settlers. Centuries on, artisans continue to give life to refined and flawless leather goods.
Camera and lens by Nikon.
Lexar Media Card.
Focal Length 52.0 mm
MASTERS AT WORK
The Brioni Tailors are the boundless heralds of the men’s tailoring art. They are the men and women who achieve the highest level of sartorial excellence. Their artistry is imbued in all the unseen details that distinguish Brioni garments. From the initial cutting to the final ironing phases, they impart expertise to all the steps that bring a Brioni men’s suit to life, rendering it an unmatched creation and an emblem of the expertise handed down from generation to generation. Every suit is the result of the Brioni method, a process unique to the company that requires 220 steps and more than 22 hours of effective workmanship. Under the supervision of our tailoring experts, each suit comes to life thanks to more than 6000 meticulously hidden stitches made by hand. With the manual skill as its pivot, Brioni suit caresses the body lightly and molds the silhouette with absolute precision. In this process of sculpture, the Brioni Master Tailors work with each client to create unique masterpieces in a harmonious dialog between body, personality, needs and desires.
GENIUS OF THE LAND
Penne is Brioni and Brioni is Penne. With its cobblestone streets, dramatic castle, enchanting landscape, and its long winters and quiet summers, this calm town in the Abruzzo region provides the perfect environment for craftmanship and dedication. Penne is home to the heart of the Italian men’s tailoring tradition. In fact, tailoring has always run in the blood and in the unsurpassed manual expertise of Penne’s population. In 1959, Nazareno Fonticoli – one of Brioni’s founders and among Rome’s most renowned tailors – and his business partner Gaetano Savini pioneered the idea of prêt-á-couture, creating a tailoring atelier of industrial proportion in Penne. For this ambitious endeavor, Fonticoli cogently opened it in his hometown, gathering the most skilled of the local tailors. They christened it Brioni Roman Style, with its Roman perspective and endemic Abruzzian values.
TREASURE OF KNOWLEDGE
Tailoring is a cultural legacy that takes decades to transmit from a seasoned master to a young talent. Brioni’s founders faced the importance to safeguard the Brioni tradition with a bold intuition: invest in the schooling of new generations. It was 1985 when the Scuola di Alta Sartoria opened in Penne, the sole existing tailoring high school in Italy. It quickly turned into an institution of Abruzzo and a crown jewel of Italian savoir faire. Having its very own tailors trained in its very own school is what sets Brioni apart in the firmament of men’s tailoring. Only sixteen pupils are rigorously selected every four years to attend the courses at the school, housed in a stern historical building in the town center. With an ethical and artisanal mission, the Scuola di Alta Sartoria exceeds the mere training of the next Master Tailors: it is imbued with the belief that a meaningful future comes from the transmission of a deep-rooted heritage.
There are few men who grace the digital devices we use for a style fix more inspirational than Alessandro Squarzi. Transcending the roles of menswear designer, entrepreneur, talent scout, style icon and collector of vintage cars, motorcycles and watches, the salt-and-pepper-haired Italian has developed a cult following and has acquired an understanding of the varying modes of dress.
Whether he’s sporting bespoke Edward Green and a bespoke Fortela double-breasted jacket and waistcoat made from Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth (pictured), or a Vietnam War utility shirt with white denim jeans and checkered slip-on Vans sneakers, Squarzi consistently does justice to his adaptable style, and pairs it with a friendly smile. Unsurprisingly, this 21st-century fashion-industry polymath is constantly on the move. We shot him when he was staying at the contemporary but grand Blakes Hotel in London for meetings about his two labels: Fortela, a ready-to-wear label inspired by a blend of Italian tailoring and rich Japanese textiles, and AS65, which offers repurposed and military parkas at a high price point. It’s clear that he designs for himself, and as such is a rake ne plus ultra.
Alessandro Squarzi, born in Forlì in 1965, is an Italian entrepreneur in the fashion industry, a talent scout and one of the most photographed men by street style bloggers around the world.
His activity in the fashion business starts in the 90s.
First as boutique manager, then as an experienced salesman Squarzi cultivated his passion for fashion. He’s not only a brilliant business man, he also understood before others the potential of some of today’s well-known brands , that at the time were still finding their spot in the industry.
From the early 2000s, Alessandro Squarzi has created many brands and baptized others that continue to be very successful and marketed all over the world.
Between 2011 and 2013 he has designed three new labels: Fortela, AS65 and Atlantic Stars.
"Bohemian" may denote "a socially unconventional person, especially one who is involved in the arts".
Some interesting facts.
Bohemianism is the practice of an unconventional lifestyle, often in the company of like-minded people and with few permanent ties. It involves musical, artistic, literary or spiritual pursuits. In this context, Bohemians may or may not be wanderers, adventurers, or vagabonds.
This use of the word bohemian first appeared in the English language in the nineteenth century to describe the non-traditional lifestyles of marginalized and impoverished artists, writers, journalists, musicians, and actors in major European cities.
Bohemians were associated with unorthodox or anti-establishment political or social viewpoints, which often were expressed through free love, frugality, and—in some cases—voluntary poverty. A more economically privileged, wealthy, or even aristocratic bohemian circle is sometimes referred to as haute bohème (literally "high Bohemia")
In the United States.
In the 1850s, aesthetic bohemians began to arrive in the United States. In New York City in 1857, a group of some 15–20 young, cultured journalists flourished as self-described "bohemians" until the American Civil War began in 1861. This group gathered at a German bar on Broadway called Pfaff's beer cellar.
Photo taken in Sherman Oaks, California.
Nikon camera and a 2.8 lens.
La Martina is a family company focusing on Polo technical equipment production and clothing and accessories collection, whose stylistic inspiration comes from this world. Based on the same values of this King sport's, it shares those ethical concepts: respect for rules and the enemys, sense of honour, and above all, integrity. Investing in technical equipment development, that is not only high performing in sporting point of view, but also guarantees maximum safety for player and horse; all this is an attitude part of our company, showed in the lifestyle collections through high quality materials and details attention.
Stores around the world.
La Martina starting from Buenos Aires has expanded worldwide: shops have been opened in London, Milan , Singapore , Dubai , Bangkok and Johannesburg . The brand philosophy is very simple: just walk into a store of La Martina anywhere in the world to enter the heart of the pole . It is a community , a way of life , a sport and a choice of style.
Since 2011 , La Martina has built a solid partnership with Maserati , ranging from sponsorship of events related to Polo,to production co - branding of a prestigious capsule within the collection . In 2014 , on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of Maserati , the Maserati Centennial Tour was developed , supported by La Martina : four stages in the most prestigious club in the world . The collaboration continued with the creation of the global tournament " Maserati Polo Tour " , in which La Martina plays the key role of technical equipment supplier, as well as Maserati partners in major marketing and communication activities . The ultimate goal of this partnership is to give visibility to the values nd traditions of the game of Polo through the most renowned international events .
About This Book.
In the world of fashion, Italy is the Mount Everest of men's style. London
may have Savile Row, Paris its luxury industries, and New York Madison
Avenue, but none possesses the true essence of Italian elegance. Beyond
its global fashion brands, the soul of Italian style is found in the
workshops and boutiques of the established masters and artisans who for
generations have created the finest menswear on the planet.
Industry insider and respected sartorialist Hugo Jacomet is one of
Europe's most knowledgeable commentators on men's fashion. This lavish
guide is the result of over two years spent traveling the length and
breadth of Italy, from the foothills of the Alps to the islands of Sicily,
documenting the craftsmanship behind Italy's most elegant gentlemen. From
Renaissance fabric mills to the world-famous sartorias, from international
brands to family-run businesses, over fifty houses from across the country
are celebrated for their unique style and commitment to upholding timeless
Italian traditions. Exquisite photographs by Lyle Roblin, commissioned
specially for this book, reveal the passion and zeal of the country's finest fabric
merchants, tailors, producers and boutique-owners.
This richly illustrated journey uncovers the rarely seen producers of true
Italian style, essential reading for the modern gentleman and all those
who appreciate the beauty of a bespoke suit, the quality of a hand-welted
shoe, the luxury of hand-made gloves, or the flamboyant panache of a
seven-fold silk tie.
At the roots of Claus Porto are its German founders and a beautiful, historic Portuguese city. The marriage of these two European identities went on to create a venerable beauty and fragrance house, which marks its 130th anniversary in 2017.
The label built its name on hand-crafted soaps infused with fine fragrances, which draw on ingredients from Portugal’s lush countryside. These products are imbued with an artisan’s heart and soul, and are wrapped by hand in packaging illustrated with beautiful art work.
Every product shines with the influence of the house’s vintage graphic designs, which give a sense of being transported to the glamourous decadence of Belle Époque Europe. And Claus Porto’s factory is still installed in its home city of Porto, where the soaps are crafted using mechanical, old-world methods.
Claus Porto has preserved this heritage even in turbulent times. Over more than 100 years and 4 generations, Claus Porto has maintained its authenticity, developing its expertise in perfumes and cosmetics, along with a hand-crafted ethos. The house's archive also holds an incredible portfolio of hand-made colorful labels and patterns, each conveying a unique personality.