Orazio Luciano | Always a Thimble in the Pocket

Style & Iconic Details

Orazio Luciano has been making high quality formal and casual garments for the elegant man since early 90’s.

Refined classicism and a touch of technical virtuosity are keynotes of the brand, inspired by Neapolitan tailoring, the founders create their models on contemporary modern lines with the objective to form garments worn with unrestricted ease, the Neapolitan flair is always there, present in each suit, in each jacket, in each cote and in each detail.

In Orazio Luciano's workshop the cutters turn gorgeous fabrics into bespoke pieces, made to measure and ready to wear collections, attention to detail, perfection of cut and typical soft Neapolitan construction are the true heritage of the company.

From the earliest days the brand has dared to experiment different techniques and push the traditional style boundaries with subtle details like an aggressive mappina, hand stitched buttonholes and a particularly notable effortless fit, Orazio Luciano likes to wear his elegance lightly while pushing the traditional wardrobe codes to make his own style statement.

Orazio Luciano offers today's well-dressed man the best expression of modern tailoring. Its Ready-to-Wear collection conceived from hand-made craftsmanship, high quality fabrics and a modern touch has been recognized and praised by many prestigious sartorial retailers.

The Orazio Luciano famous fit offers an unrivaled freedom of movement, which refines the body figure.

Details like hand sewn buttonholes, dropped notch height, slightly broadened lapel and other stylistic devices perfectly symbolize the spirit of Orazio Luciano, a true Men's tailoring company.

ORAZIO LUCIANO LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA

Countless diligent tailors, who are responsible for the incomparable fit and character of every suitjacket, pair of trousers or shirt, work with all their blood, sweat and tears for many hours of hard manual work for the perfect sartorial pieces.

But which philosophy and, above all, which group of people is behind these industrious tailors and behind these individual manufactories?

In order to provide you with valuable insights into the sartorial world, we will address these questions within the new section "Behind The Brand".

In our first article, we are talking about no other than Orazio Luciano.

The success story dates back to the year 1992. After his long-standing work as the first cutter at Kiton, Orazio Luciano, whose brand is named after him, decided to set up his own business. Up until now, the manufactory of Orazio Luciano is situated in the area of San Giovanni a Teduccio, in the southwestern part of Naples, just a few meters from the Gulf of Naples.

THE ORAZIO LUCIANO PHILOSOPHY

The full name "Orazio Luciano - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" translates as "The Real Neapolitan Tailoring". So it is self-evident that the suits and jackets always have to fit perfectly.

It is an honest product which scores with a wonderful fit as well as extreme softness and lightness. Like other well-known manufactures, Orazio Luciano also relies on the classic Neapolitan art of tailoring.

These include:

A soft construction of the jacket

  • The typical shirt shoulders, better known as "Spalla Camicia", which are significantly elaborated by Orazio Luciano

  • The Neapolitan breast pocket, better known as "Barchetta"

  • The wider lapel

  • The hand-sewn buttonholes

Due to the high-cut armholes and the extremely easy processing without padding, a feeling of lightness is created from the very first moment. The high armhole and the soft shoulder construction let the suit fit perfectly - an effect that you will feel right at the first try!

Tailoring

At Orazio Luciano we favor a soft constructed, masculine cut garment, with a shaped waist and typical Neapolitan mappina shoulder. We aim to create a silhouette that is well balanced and in perfect proportion. Our Made To Measure service perfectly bridges the gap between bespoke and ready-to-wear and offers the client an efficient solution to have a suit made to his own specifications.

The client would need to fit our master garments at the hands of one of our tailoring advisors and discusses and chooses the style of suit and the fabric and particular buttons and lining that he would like. This is a time-conscious and effective service that doesn't compromise on quality. We cut our clothes to create a harmonious and flattering line, naturally revealing something of the character of its owner. Every customer has their own pattern, meticulously hand cut to his individual measurements and figure, refined through the fitting process.

For a new customer this process will take approximately three to four months to complete and will usually involve four fittings. Once a pattern has been created all subsequent clothes can be completed more rapidly, each garment is cut and fitted under the control of Head Cutter Orazio Luciano.

https://www.orazioluciano.com





A. CARACENI | SARTORIA.

PASSION AND TRADITION.

Augusto Caraceni was born in Ortona, in the Italian province of Chieti, in 1893. From a young age he and his brothers learnt the art of tailoring from their father Tommaso, who had a tailor’s shop in the town but was well-known throughout the whole region. When Domenico, the eldest of the brothers, opened a tailor’s in Rome, he asked two of his siblings, Galliano and Augusto, to come and work with him. It was there that Augusto gained a great deal of experience. In the 1930s Augusto moved to Paris, where he found great success as a tailor, counting many of the most prominent celebrities of the time among his clientele. He married and had four children there, but he returned to in 1939 with the outbreak of World War Two. In 1946 he opened a tailor’s in Milan, in via Fatebenefratelli 16, with a partner. That same year, young son Mario starts working at the family business and learns the sartorial craft. After Augusto passed away in 1972, Mario renamed the tailor’s in memory of his father, and thus the name A. CARACENI that we know today was born. From 1972 to 1998 the business moved forward and prospered, gaining an international clientele, all thanks to the determination and hard work of Mario, who stayed true to the firm’s traditions. Mario was awarded several prizes, including Sant’Omobono and the Union of Milanese Tailors. Mario retired in 1998, leaving the business to his daughter Rita Maria and his son-in-law Carlo Andreacchio, both of whom had been working with him for the previous 20 years, Carlo as a tailor and Rita Maria as a manager. Carlo became part of the Academy of Tailors in 1997 and was awarded a gold medal by the Union of Milanese Tailors in 2002. Their children Massimiliano and Valentina had been fascinated by the job from a young age, and in 2004 they also joined the family business in order to continue the tradition and be ready to take over when their moment comes!

QUALITY AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL.

We carefully select and purchase the finest English and Italian fabrics in order to ensure the high level of quality necessary for a suit to be a triumph, the standard our clients are used to. We don’t compromise on our linings: we are one of the few tailors to use silk to give our suits an elegant and luxurious finish. For this reason, we seek out and contact the best manufacturers directly. We meticulously research the hemp, horsehair and other details, to ensure that we only source natural, high-quality materials.

HAND-CRAFTED EXCELLENCE.

All our garments are strictly stitched by hand in the old sartorial tradition, which has been passed from generation to generation and lives on in the young people who come to us to learn it. Our son Massimiliano, who has been working with us since the age of 18, also continues the family tradition with passion and dedication. We can proudly say that we feel like the keepers of an art which represents both the past and the future of Italy, and which is appreciated and sought-after throughout the world despite the advances of modern technology and innovation.

ELEGANCE AND DISTINCTION.

From the most formal suits to more casual garments, our suits have always been made to measure, to offer our clients the pleasure of choosing and wearing a unique item of clothing. Thanks to our years of experience and practice, we can create the perfect suit to meet the needs of each client. We can offer the right garment for every occasion: morning dress for important events held during the day, dinner jackets and white tie for evening events, and more relaxed outfits for your free time. Not forgetting our double-breasted jacket, recognised the world over for its versatility in both formal and informal situations.

Brioni | The Art of Tailoring.

MASTERS AT WORK

The Brioni Tailors are the boundless heralds of the men’s tailoring art. They are the men and women who achieve the highest level of sartorial excellence. Their artistry is imbued in all the unseen details that distinguish Brioni garments. From the initial cutting to the final ironing phases, they impart expertise to all the steps that bring a Brioni men’s suit to life, rendering it an unmatched creation and an emblem of the expertise handed down from generation to generation. Every suit is the result of the Brioni method, a process unique to the company that requires 220 steps and more than 22 hours of effective workmanship. Under the supervision of our tailoring experts, each suit comes to life thanks to more than 6000 meticulously hidden stitches made by hand. With the manual skill as its pivot, Brioni suit caresses the body lightly and molds the silhouette with absolute precision. In this process of sculpture, the Brioni Master Tailors work with each client to create unique masterpieces in a harmonious dialog between body, personality, needs and desires.

GENIUS OF THE LAND

Penne is Brioni and Brioni is Penne. With its cobblestone streets, dramatic castle, enchanting landscape, and its long winters and quiet summers, this calm town in the Abruzzo region provides the perfect environment for craftmanship and dedication. Penne is home to the heart of the Italian men’s tailoring tradition. In fact, tailoring has always run in the blood and in the unsurpassed manual expertise of Penne’s population. In 1959, Nazareno Fonticoli – one of Brioni’s founders and among Rome’s most renowned tailors – and his business partner Gaetano Savini pioneered the idea of prêt-á-couture, creating a tailoring atelier of industrial proportion in Penne. For this ambitious endeavor, Fonticoli cogently opened it in his hometown, gathering the most skilled of the local tailors. They christened it Brioni Roman Style, with its Roman perspective and endemic Abruzzian values.

TREASURE OF KNOWLEDGE

Tailoring is a cultural legacy that takes decades to transmit from a seasoned master to a young talent. Brioni’s founders faced the importance to safeguard the Brioni tradition with a bold intuition: invest in the schooling of new generations. It was 1985 when the Scuola di Alta Sartoria opened in Penne, the sole existing tailoring high school in Italy. It quickly turned into an institution of Abruzzo and a crown jewel of Italian savoir faire. Having its very own tailors trained in its very own school is what sets Brioni apart in the firmament of men’s tailoring. Only sixteen pupils are rigorously selected every four years to attend the courses at the school, housed in a stern historical building in the town center. With an ethical and artisanal mission, the Scuola di Alta Sartoria exceeds the mere training of the next Master Tailors: it is imbued with the belief that a meaningful future comes from the transmission of a deep-rooted heritage.

FORTELA’S ALESSANDRO SQUARZI.

There are few men who grace the digital devices we use for a style fix more inspirational than Alessandro Squarzi. Transcending the roles of menswear designer, entrepreneur, talent scout, style icon and collector of vintage cars, motorcycles and watches, the salt-and-pepper-haired Italian has developed a cult following and has acquired an understanding of the varying modes of dress.

Whether he’s sporting bespoke Edward Green and a bespoke Fortela double-breasted jacket and waistcoat made from Vitale Barberis Canonico cloth (pictured), or a Vietnam War utility shirt with white denim jeans and checkered slip-on Vans sneakers, Squarzi consistently does justice to his adaptable style, and pairs it with a friendly smile. Unsurprisingly, this 21st-century fashion-industry polymath is constantly on the move. We shot him when he was staying at the contemporary but grand Blakes Hotel in London for meetings about his two labels: Fortela, a ready-to-wear label inspired by a blend of Italian tailoring and rich Japanese textiles, and AS65, which offers repurposed and military parkas at a high price point. It’s clear that he designs for himself, and as such is a rake ne plus ultra.

BIOGRAPHY

Alessandro Squarzi, born in Forlì in 1965, is an Italian entrepreneur in the fashion industry, a talent scout and one of the most photographed men by street style bloggers around the world.

His activity in the fashion business starts in the 90s.
First as boutique manager, then as an experienced salesman Squarzi cultivated his passion for fashion. He’s not only a brilliant business man, he also understood before others the potential of some of today’s well-known brands , that at the time were still finding their spot in the industry.

From the early 2000s, Alessandro Squarzi has created many brands and baptized others that continue to be very successful and marketed all over the world.
Between 2011 and 2013 he has designed three new labels: Fortela, AS65 and Atlantic Stars.