Ayres | Bespoke Tailor

Traditional Tailor’s Family.

Ayres Gonçalo was born and raised in a traditional tailor’s family and soon showed interest in this art. His grandfather, Ayres Carneiro da Silva owner of the Ayres Alta Costura business, was considered one of the best Portuguese tailors; His career spanned seventy illustrious years where he tailored suits and other articles to a distinguished clientele, including artists, sports people, members of Parliament and bankers. Throughout his youth Ayres demonstrated an increasing interest for fabrics, needles and scissors. At the age of sixteen he had already fallen in love with the art of tailoring and was fortunate to be afforded the opportunity to work after school hours in Grandfather’s shop. He soon became heavily involved in the business by accompanying his Grandfather on client visits giving him his first real exposure to fabrics and fitting. By the time he was nineteen tailoring took up most of his day as this became a full time occupation working under the guidance of his mentor.

International Adventure.

In 2004, Ayres made the decision that in order to broaden his skill set he was to embark on an international adventure to Madrid. It was there at the Sociedad de Sastres de España (Madrid), that Ayres was given the opportunity to improve his knowledge and tailoring techniques. Whilst maintaining a full time job with a well known Spanish tailor ( Pedro Muñoz of N. 72 on Calle Serrano) the Sociedade de Sastres de España awarded Ayres the Cortador de Sasteria certificate in June 2005. Mid 2006 Ayres was to continue his international venture when he opted to relocate to London with a view of fulfilling a childhood dream of working on the ‘Golden Mile of Tailoring’. This street more commonly known as Savile Row is home to the most well known names in the world of traditional bespoke tailoring. After overcoming the initial nervousness of finding a role in this new country, Ayres was offered a position with the renowned Gieves & Hawkes located in No. 1 Savile Row. Here he was given the opportunity to make suits and other articles from scratch whilst learning the high standards required to obtain a ‘Savile Row’ designation. The highlight of his career whilst working for Gieves & Hawkes was undoubtedly when Ayres was requested to make a suit specifically for HRH The Prince of Wales.

At Gieves & Hawkes.

In 2009 whilst still working at Gieves & Hawkes, Ayres was a finalist in Golden Shears Contest, a contest designed to acknowledge young up and coming tailors working in the United Kingdom. In 2010 he received the Bespoke Tailor certificate from the Savile Row Bespoke Association, a seal of approval providing him with worldwide recognition as a tailor who is part of an elite group of bespoke tailors on what can be best considered the Mecca for men seeking the very best of tailoring - Savile Row. It was late 2010 when Ayres decided to gain further international experience out of the EU region. His first stop was New York City, where he worked with a renowned, up and coming tailor - Michael Andrews Bespoke. This six month partnership allowed him to reinforce his experience through contact with the New Yorkers tailor craftsmanship which then led him to China, where he worked for several months training tailors in Shenzhen and Hong Kong. With well over a decade of experience, Ayres Gonçalo understands that this is an opportunity to continue with the Ayres family tradition and establish the Ayres Bespoke Tailor brand. Currently based in Portugal operating between Lisbon and London Ayres will dedicate his time exclusively to his Portuguese and international clients, who have been following him over these past years whilst he has sought to learn, adapt and mature as a tailor. Ayres will utilize this wealth of international experience to continue to provide his exclusive tailoring services to his prized clientele.



Orazio Luciano | Always a Thimble in the Pocket

Style & Iconic Details

Orazio Luciano has been making high quality formal and casual garments for the elegant man since early 90’s.

Refined classicism and a touch of technical virtuosity are keynotes of the brand, inspired by Neapolitan tailoring, the founders create their models on contemporary modern lines with the objective to form garments worn with unrestricted ease, the Neapolitan flair is always there, present in each suit, in each jacket, in each cote and in each detail.

In Orazio Luciano's workshop the cutters turn gorgeous fabrics into bespoke pieces, made to measure and ready to wear collections, attention to detail, perfection of cut and typical soft Neapolitan construction are the true heritage of the company.

From the earliest days the brand has dared to experiment different techniques and push the traditional style boundaries with subtle details like an aggressive mappina, hand stitched buttonholes and a particularly notable effortless fit, Orazio Luciano likes to wear his elegance lightly while pushing the traditional wardrobe codes to make his own style statement.

Orazio Luciano offers today's well-dressed man the best expression of modern tailoring. Its Ready-to-Wear collection conceived from hand-made craftsmanship, high quality fabrics and a modern touch has been recognized and praised by many prestigious sartorial retailers.

The Orazio Luciano famous fit offers an unrivaled freedom of movement, which refines the body figure.

Details like hand sewn buttonholes, dropped notch height, slightly broadened lapel and other stylistic devices perfectly symbolize the spirit of Orazio Luciano, a true Men's tailoring company.

ORAZIO LUCIANO LA VERA SARTORIA NAPOLETANA

Countless diligent tailors, who are responsible for the incomparable fit and character of every suitjacket, pair of trousers or shirt, work with all their blood, sweat and tears for many hours of hard manual work for the perfect sartorial pieces.

But which philosophy and, above all, which group of people is behind these industrious tailors and behind these individual manufactories?

In order to provide you with valuable insights into the sartorial world, we will address these questions within the new section "Behind The Brand".

In our first article, we are talking about no other than Orazio Luciano.

The success story dates back to the year 1992. After his long-standing work as the first cutter at Kiton, Orazio Luciano, whose brand is named after him, decided to set up his own business. Up until now, the manufactory of Orazio Luciano is situated in the area of San Giovanni a Teduccio, in the southwestern part of Naples, just a few meters from the Gulf of Naples.

THE ORAZIO LUCIANO PHILOSOPHY

The full name "Orazio Luciano - La Vera Sartoria Napoletana" translates as "The Real Neapolitan Tailoring". So it is self-evident that the suits and jackets always have to fit perfectly.

It is an honest product which scores with a wonderful fit as well as extreme softness and lightness. Like other well-known manufactures, Orazio Luciano also relies on the classic Neapolitan art of tailoring.

These include:

A soft construction of the jacket

  • The typical shirt shoulders, better known as "Spalla Camicia", which are significantly elaborated by Orazio Luciano

  • The Neapolitan breast pocket, better known as "Barchetta"

  • The wider lapel

  • The hand-sewn buttonholes

Due to the high-cut armholes and the extremely easy processing without padding, a feeling of lightness is created from the very first moment. The high armhole and the soft shoulder construction let the suit fit perfectly - an effect that you will feel right at the first try!

Tailoring

At Orazio Luciano we favor a soft constructed, masculine cut garment, with a shaped waist and typical Neapolitan mappina shoulder. We aim to create a silhouette that is well balanced and in perfect proportion. Our Made To Measure service perfectly bridges the gap between bespoke and ready-to-wear and offers the client an efficient solution to have a suit made to his own specifications.

The client would need to fit our master garments at the hands of one of our tailoring advisors and discusses and chooses the style of suit and the fabric and particular buttons and lining that he would like. This is a time-conscious and effective service that doesn't compromise on quality. We cut our clothes to create a harmonious and flattering line, naturally revealing something of the character of its owner. Every customer has their own pattern, meticulously hand cut to his individual measurements and figure, refined through the fitting process.

For a new customer this process will take approximately three to four months to complete and will usually involve four fittings. Once a pattern has been created all subsequent clothes can be completed more rapidly, each garment is cut and fitted under the control of Head Cutter Orazio Luciano.

https://www.orazioluciano.com





Brioni | The Art of Tailoring.

MASTERS AT WORK

The Brioni Tailors are the boundless heralds of the men’s tailoring art. They are the men and women who achieve the highest level of sartorial excellence. Their artistry is imbued in all the unseen details that distinguish Brioni garments. From the initial cutting to the final ironing phases, they impart expertise to all the steps that bring a Brioni men’s suit to life, rendering it an unmatched creation and an emblem of the expertise handed down from generation to generation. Every suit is the result of the Brioni method, a process unique to the company that requires 220 steps and more than 22 hours of effective workmanship. Under the supervision of our tailoring experts, each suit comes to life thanks to more than 6000 meticulously hidden stitches made by hand. With the manual skill as its pivot, Brioni suit caresses the body lightly and molds the silhouette with absolute precision. In this process of sculpture, the Brioni Master Tailors work with each client to create unique masterpieces in a harmonious dialog between body, personality, needs and desires.

GENIUS OF THE LAND

Penne is Brioni and Brioni is Penne. With its cobblestone streets, dramatic castle, enchanting landscape, and its long winters and quiet summers, this calm town in the Abruzzo region provides the perfect environment for craftmanship and dedication. Penne is home to the heart of the Italian men’s tailoring tradition. In fact, tailoring has always run in the blood and in the unsurpassed manual expertise of Penne’s population. In 1959, Nazareno Fonticoli – one of Brioni’s founders and among Rome’s most renowned tailors – and his business partner Gaetano Savini pioneered the idea of prêt-á-couture, creating a tailoring atelier of industrial proportion in Penne. For this ambitious endeavor, Fonticoli cogently opened it in his hometown, gathering the most skilled of the local tailors. They christened it Brioni Roman Style, with its Roman perspective and endemic Abruzzian values.

TREASURE OF KNOWLEDGE

Tailoring is a cultural legacy that takes decades to transmit from a seasoned master to a young talent. Brioni’s founders faced the importance to safeguard the Brioni tradition with a bold intuition: invest in the schooling of new generations. It was 1985 when the Scuola di Alta Sartoria opened in Penne, the sole existing tailoring high school in Italy. It quickly turned into an institution of Abruzzo and a crown jewel of Italian savoir faire. Having its very own tailors trained in its very own school is what sets Brioni apart in the firmament of men’s tailoring. Only sixteen pupils are rigorously selected every four years to attend the courses at the school, housed in a stern historical building in the town center. With an ethical and artisanal mission, the Scuola di Alta Sartoria exceeds the mere training of the next Master Tailors: it is imbued with the belief that a meaningful future comes from the transmission of a deep-rooted heritage.

La Martina | A Passion for Polo.

Polo Calling.

La Martina is a family company focusing on Polo technical equipment production and clothing and accessories collection, whose stylistic inspiration comes from this world. Based on the same values of this King sport's, it shares those ethical concepts: respect for rules and the enemys, sense of honour, and above all, integrity. Investing in technical equipment development, that is not only high performing in sporting point of view, but also guarantees maximum safety for player and horse; all this is an attitude part of our company, showed in the lifestyle collections through high quality materials and details attention.

Stores around the world.

La Martina starting from Buenos Aires has expanded worldwide: shops have been opened in London, Milan , Singapore , Dubai , Bangkok and Johannesburg . The brand philosophy is very simple: just walk into a store of La Martina anywhere in the world to enter the heart of the pole . It is a community , a way of life , a sport and a choice of style.

MASERATI

Since 2011 , La Martina has built a solid partnership with Maserati , ranging from sponsorship of events related to Polo,to production co - branding of a prestigious capsule within the collection . In 2014 , on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of Maserati , the Maserati Centennial Tour was developed , supported by La Martina : four stages in the most prestigious club in the world . The collaboration continued with the creation of the global tournament " Maserati Polo Tour " , in which La Martina plays the key role of technical equipment supplier, as well as Maserati partners in major marketing and communication activities . The ultimate goal of this partnership is to give visibility to the values nd traditions of the game of Polo through the most renowned international events .

The Italian Gentleman By Hugo Jacomet.

About This Book.

In the world of fashion, Italy is the Mount Everest of men's style. London
may have Savile Row, Paris its luxury industries, and New York Madison
Avenue, but none possesses the true essence of Italian elegance. Beyond
its global fashion brands, the soul of Italian style is found in the
workshops and boutiques of the established masters and artisans who for
generations have created the finest menswear on the planet.

Industry insider and respected sartorialist Hugo Jacomet is one of
Europe's most knowledgeable commentators on men's fashion. This lavish
guide is the result of over two years spent traveling the length and
breadth of Italy, from the foothills of the Alps to the islands of Sicily,
documenting the craftsmanship behind Italy's most elegant gentlemen. From
Renaissance fabric mills to the world-famous sartorias, from international
brands to family-run businesses, over fifty houses from across the country
are celebrated for their unique style and commitment to upholding timeless
Italian traditions. Exquisite photographs by Lyle Roblin, commissioned
specially for this book, reveal the passion and zeal of the country's finest fabric
merchants, tailors, producers and boutique-owners.

This richly illustrated journey uncovers the rarely seen producers of true
Italian style, essential reading for the modern gentleman and all those
who appreciate the beauty of a bespoke suit, the quality of a hand-welted
shoe, the luxury of hand-made gloves, or the flamboyant panache of a
seven-fold silk tie.

https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/the-italian-gentleman-hugo-jacomet/1125855195?ean=9780847861026

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http://www.powells.com/book/the-italian-gentleman-9780847861026/61-0

https://www.indiebound.org/book/9780847861026